Advice for fitting your own glass splashback...

 

If you are a dab hand at DIY or simply on a tight budget, these tips can help you to fit your own glass splashbacks. 

 

You will need:

• A tape measure.

• Sealant Gun.

• Silicone sealant: We recommend a low modulous clear silicone sealant. This can be used for adhesion and sealing the edges. ( Do not apply it in big blobs as it affects the drying time ). Please note: white sealant may be visible, even through darker colours and it is also important to apply the silicone as instructed on the tube. 

• 2mm or 3mm tile spacers.

• Goggles and gloves.

• A cup of tea and a bit of patience. It is always worth checking out U-tube videos if you are completely new to this. We also recommend a biscuit to to dip in your tea.

• Draw a horizontal line on your wall 3mm above your worktop, using a spirit level.

• Mark further lines at right angles to the horizontal line where you want each splashback (or upstand) to start and finish.

• If you want your cooker splashback to fit between 2 kitchen units or other surfaces, mark the lines 2mm in from each surface.

• Remember to leave a 3mm expansion gap where the glass meets another surface (wall, work top, cooker hood). No expansion gap is necessary where two glass surfaces meet each other.

• Electrical sockets: measuring around sockets can be tricky. If you are new to DIY we recommend that you should probably just measure for a simple cooker splashback and upstands with no cut our sections (the maximum glass height for upstands is up to socket height minus an expansion gap). More experienced DIY enthusiasts may find it easier to measure around their electrical sockets to fit full wall height glass splashbacks (between worktop and wall units). When measuring around sockets ensure that your sockets  fit on top of the glass. Typically an electrical back box is 70mm x 70mm for a single socket but the socket face can be up to 90mm x 90mm. We usually make the cut out 5mm smaller than the face of the socket. So, in this case it would be 85mm x 85mm but please measure your socket faces individually. These measurements are just a guideline.

• For full glass wall cladding you may prefer to use a measuring service and provide digital measurements to us. The glass will then be cut using a CNC machine. The glass will be made to the exact size and shape of the digital template and sprayed in the colour of your choice. Don't forget that we can take care of the complete process for you! 

• Another solution is to make your own templates (or get a joiner to) out of 6mm mdf/plywood. The glass splashbacks will then be made to the exact size and shape of the templates. We recommend that all electrical sockets should be removed during the templating process (consider using an electrician for this). This enables your glass splashbacks to fit neatly behind your sockets with no visible gaps. If two splashbacks or upstands meet at a corner then  you must also allow an additional 8mm for glass thickness and adhesive depth for one of the pieces (so if 2 pieces meet at a corner, one piece should stop 10-11mm short of the wall to allow for the other piece and an expansion gap- the other piece should be the full distance to the wall minus 2-3mm).

• Are you still with us? If so, next you need to check your measurements by adding the splashback widths together plus your expansion gap widths. The total width should match the width of your wall. Ask someone else to measure and double check your measurements.  It is very important to give us the correct measurements for your glass as toughened glass cannot be re-cut.

• Fitting your glass splashbacks: All surfaces MUST be dust free. You may prefer to hire an electrician to remove and refit your power sockets. After the power to your kitchen electrical sockets has been switched off and your sockets are removed you can begin to fit your glass splashbacks.

• Hold splashback up against the wall or worktop to check the fit. Be careful not to knock the corners against a hard surface. Toughened glass is not unbreakable, it just breaks into safer tiny pieces if knocked.

• Make sure that the surface you are about to fix to is flat, dry, dust free and non porous.Ensure the fixing surface is flat, variations in level should be packed out the silicon prior to fitting.

• Lie the splashbacks down with the painted side facing towards you.

• Select the correct adhesive: We recommend CLEAR NEUTRAL CURE SILICONE. Apply evenly sized and spaced lines, as per the manufacturers instructions, to the painted side of the glass (NOTE: normal silicone will eat the paint and destroy all your hard work).

• Beginning with your cooker splashback, fix the glass to the wall. Use 2mm or 3mm tile spacers to maintain your expansion gaps, you may need to adjust these gaps to ensure the joins in your glass are neat depending on how accurately it was measured. Put your socket covers back on but do not to screw them on too tightly.

• Allow at least 24 hours for your adhesive to dry.

• Then remove your tile spacers and seal the edges using more neutral cure silcone. Use no less than 2.5mm silicone sealant around the edges of your splashback. Do not use until the silicone has cured (follow manufacturers guidelines.

• Remember, if you feel that it may be too difficult for you to attempt the job yourself you can get in touch with approximate measurements for an estimate. We will be happy to help.

• How to care for my splashbacks once installed: Keeping them clean is very simple, you simply polish or wipe with standard glass cleaner. You can use hot soapy water but avoid saturating the surface.